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The First Wristwatches, A Gift for Queens and aristocracy
The exact origin of the wristwatch is a little hazy. A timepiece for the wrist gifted to Queen Elizabeth I in the 1570s was more a bracelet with a miniaturised “clock”. The wristwatch made for the Queen of Naples, in 1810, was an improvement in accuracy, but for most of the century, the wristwatch was an accessory for aristocracy. Although early wristwatches known as “Wristlets” became a popular accessory for women wearing the new bicycle suits of the early 1890s, men still preferred traditional pocket watches.
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The Wristwatch's Journey from Rarity to Mainstream
As the new century approached, the wristwatch came into its own, especially in Europe, where, in 1900, OMEGA started producing a “strap watch” for men in significant numbers. It was one of the first manufacturers to do so, although Louis Brandt & Frère, the company that would transform into OMEGA had started to produce watches assembled on a wristband, including the world’s first minute-repeater wristwatch, as early as 1892.
“Under a different name, OMEGA opened in 1848, and quickly helped to revolutionize the industry.”
The Wristwatch Goes to War, a Vital Tool for Military
Although the German Navy ordered 2,000 wristwatches for their officers in 1880, it did not ignite a trend and watches only began to migrate from pocket to wrist in earnest during the second Boer War (1899-1902), when soldiers found it easier to check the timings for action with a wristwatch. The brand made it to the Boer War because, although it looks a little delicate by today’s standards, the Lépine 12 Lignes calibre HN B movement at its heart was incredibly tough.
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The Rise of the Wristwatch: a Masculine Must-Have for Civilian Life
It was in the trenches of WW1 that the wristwatch became an acceptable masculine accessory. By 1930, sales of wristwatches had outstripped those of its pocket-bound predecessor. It took its place as one of those pieces of military kit that crossed over to become an established part of civilian life. By the 1930s, another change had come about: bracelet straps in plated metal for men.
“Once an accessory for the pocket, watches soon found their way onto men’s wrists.”
From Leather to metal and rubber: The Wristwatch Strap's Evolution
A 1906 OMEGA advertisement showed watches for both sexes with the ladies’ version on a “marguerite” extendable metal bracelet. Men stayed loyal to leather for the next few decades. However, this changed, albeit slowly. OMEGA introduced its first “Staybrite” stainless-steel men’s bracelet in 1931. By the early 1950s, the men’s bracelet in both gold and steel was a well-established alternative to traditional leather, along with rubber for the increasingly popular divers’ watch market.
New War, New Watch Straps Material, Birth of the Nylon Strap
Lightweight, fast-drying, woven nylon also came into play in the years immediately after WW2. The US Marines had in fact used a one-piece, rot-proof nylon strap in the Pacific campaign in WW2 and it became common in all the US services from 1949 onwards. A similar design supplied with the OMEGA CK2777-1 and delivered to the RAF in 1953 would fly on to universal fame.
“The OMEGA watches worn in World War II led to the creation of the Seamaster in 1948.”
The NATO Strap: A Timeless Design for a Timeless Accessory
This single-length, thread-through style of nylon strap finally got a universally acknowledged name in 1973 - the NATO - designed with a clever keeper strap to bind the watch into position. Echoing the habit for strapping a watch over thighs or gloves during the two World Wars, a true NATO strap is at least 280mm long – designed to fit over the sleeve of a wetsuit or flight suit. NATO straps are now popular in any setting, another indicator of how the iconography of watches never stands still.